The first Russian town of the Volga lands, founded under Yuri Dolgoruky: a fortress against the Bulgars, the chronicles' 'Little Kitezh' and a town of craftsmen where even bread is baked with scenes.

Region: Nizhny Novgorod OblastCoordinates: 56°39′N 43°28′E

Gorodets

Gorodets is traditionally held to have been founded by Yuri Dolgoruky in 1152, though the date is a matter of historiographic debate: the town first appears in the Laurentian Chronicle in 1171, in connection with a campaign against Volga Bulgaria. In the 1170s a powerful fortress rose here — the first Russian town of the Volga lands, guarding the border from the Bulgars. The chronicles call it Gorodets-Radilov and — remarkably — 'Little Kitezh': the elder brother of the legendary city stood here until Batu Khan's ruin. Eight centuries later the town remains a town of craftsmen: gingerbread with painted scenes, gold embroidery, carved wooden houses — Gorodets patterns are recognised at a glance. From the high Volga bank one sees the opposite shore and the dam; the town offers a gingerbread museum, a samovar museum, streets with carved window-frames and a town of craftsmen. Here there are more dates than facades — and that is the honest charm of the oldest towns.

How to get there

From Nizhny Novgorod, fifty-three kilometres north along the left bank; by train to Zavolzhye and then by bus across the dam.

Best season

May to September; in winter — gingerbread workshops and silence over the frozen Volga.

Travel tips & stories

  • The gingerbread museum runs workshops: painting your own gingerbread is worth the trip.

  • Walk down to the embankment: the Volga views here come with an eighth-century height.

  • The carved house on Pechinnaya street is a must for lovers of woodwork.

townoldestGorodets-RadilovcraftsVolga river

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