The Barguzin Corridor

Description

A two-day route along the Barguzin valley on north-eastern Baikal: the largest bay of the eastern shore, working settlements, one of the oldest Russian villages of Transbaikalia and a reserve founded in 1916. From Ulan-Ude to Ust-Barguzin is about three hundred and fifty kilometres of asphalt; the road then runs along the valley, and fueling is best done at Ust-Barguzin. The route begins on the water: Barguzin Bay stretches for about forty kilometres, and the Barguzin River flows into it, forming a delta of shallow inlets and sand spits. In summer the shallows warm up, waterfowl and waders nest here; the best overview is from the water — boat trips run from Ust-Barguzin and neighbouring settlements, and life jackets are mandatory. Ust-Barguzin is the administrative and logistical base: a museum, a pier, shops, guest houses. From here the road leads into the valley, to Staroye Barguzino — a village known since the seventeenth century as one of the first Russian settlements east of Baikal. Explorers and scholars set out from here; today the village keeps old houses, a church and a museum of local history, and the silhouette of the Barguzin range is visible from almost any point. The finale is the Barguzin Reserve, the oldest in Russia: founded in 1916, its territory exceeds three hundred and seventy thousand hectares, and it protects the Baikal seal, the sable and the brown bear. Visits are strictly limited: excursions only by arrangement with the administration and with an escort; the administration and museum are in Ust-Barguzin. It is this strict regime that has kept this shore intact — and makes the drive along the valley feel like the edge of real wild taiga.